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The Colors and Tastes of Lake Sebu
The word “verdant” must have been invented with the greenery of Lake Sebu in mind. You get a glimpse of what printed words can only hint at. Lake Sebu, approximately 1000 meters above sea level is surrounded by rainforests, and hills that seem to undulate and beckon. It is actually an extinct volcano and the crater has turned into the lake. The gentle slopes of the hills that lead to it and the highway are ribbons that seem to unravel and reveal a gift of rare splendor. The pewter-colored skies were dark and foreboding, but it did not diminish the excitement of the trip, nor the beauty that was all around us. Everything breathed of life. The earth smelled of life, and from out of it bursts plants whose foliage is of an unbelievable shade of green. Primeval, elemental, the rainforests embrace the whole geography with a possessiveness that is daunting but also inviting at the same time. From our vantage point, we get a glimpse of enchantment and promise.
Soon enough we arrive. It is less than thirty minutes’ drive from Surallah, South Cotabato. From the road, we finally see it: Lake Sebu. The famed lake straddles the valleys like a demigod reigning with effortless grace and beauty. The wind that came in gentle waves was crisp and chilly. There is a silence that is restful and yet you feel an elemental throbbing in the air. The air smelled of earth, rain and if colors have a smell, this is how green would smell like. Soon, big dollops of rain drops began to fall, shrouding the lake in magic, harking back to days of ancient warriors in their colorful attires, and the bangles of mountain women accompanies the dance of victory.
Punta Isla, the resort, was festooned with colorful array of banners and traditional T’boli weaving. The atmosphere was festive as the smiles of the wait staff greeted us – they seem genuinely happy to see you, and seemed honored that you came to spend time with them. One can hear the beating of gongs and the rhythmic strum of the hegalong (traditional T’boli stringed instrument). The music was a perfect backdrop to the cultural and culinary discovery we were about to indulge. Women in traditional T’boli costumes were colorful and charming. They dance for the guests, I am told, but that afternoon, it was raining hard. I would have to wait for my next visit to see their dance.
We decided to go to Lake Sebu on a whim - a group of friends who have not seen each other for a while. We arrived around 2pm, and were quickly shown to a hut on the edge of the lake. The late lunch with friends was delicious. Tilapia is the focal point of lunch, and aside from its beauty, this is also what Lake Sebu is famous for. Variations of tilapia dishes were brought to us: crispy tilapia skin chicharon, kinilaw, sugba, paksiw. The rice was encased in a bamboo tube that lent its flavor to the hot steaming rice. It was delicious.
The kinilaw was a discovery. A kinilaw aficionado, I’ve never tasted fresh water fish served as kilaw before, but I was soon a convert. It was tangy, the ginger, the chili peppers and the onions lent themselves well to the unique taste of fresh tilapia without overpowering the subtle flavors of the fish. If Lake Sebu was verdantly green, the tilapia chicharon was golden, crispy and tasty. Dipped in spicy vinegar, it was a burst of astonishing delight. The paksiw was actually made of the skeletal remains of the fish after the flesh was filleted. I don’t care too much for paksiw, but I gave it a try, and found that I liked it. But the piece de resistance was the sugba.
The tilapia is tossed in a sheet of galvanized iron made red hot by open flame. With minimal addition for flavor (just salt), it is seared quickly. The sizzle and the air perfumed with the cooking tilapia have a direct, almost primal effect to one’s stomach. You salivate; you anticipate the gustatory gift that is soon to be served. The fish is juicy and sweetish. Done this way, the fish is not overcooked or dry. So often many people commit heinous acts of overcooking when making sugba, and all that is left is some bitter, blackened lumps of coal instead of juicy, voluptuous fish. I think what lent the flavors its unique taste is the freshness of the fish. To think that just a few minutes ago they were swimming in the rich, mineral laden waters of the lake.
I hear there are grand plans to make Lake Sebu the tourist destination that it is already becoming. Zip lines are being put up along the equally famous seven falls around Lake Sebu. Resorts, hotels and others are beginning to sprout like wild mushrooms. I dread the day when I return and find the lake becoming a tacky tourist trap. But I hope not. I hope that the officials will be discerning enough to be careful and not spoil the pristine beauty of this mountain, for it will be a loss of tragic proportion when that day comes. In the meantime, we have finished the huge lunch that was served. The rains have stopped, and the raucous laughter among friends have stilled for a moment, savoring the silence and the cool breeze. We were happy.
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